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Brake Troubleshooting: This is a quick Brake Troubleshooting guide ..

How often should my brakes be checked by a competent mechanic?
Of course much depends on the type of driving you do - city verses highway, etc. - but you should have them inspected at least every 24,000 miles. Check your owner's manual or come on by and we will inspect them for free.

Brake
Brake assembly including Rotor and Calipers
Why does the brake pedal feel softer or harder than normal?
A softer or harder pedal may be caused by a faulty master cylinder or power booster, as well as system leaks or wrong adjustments.

What is meant by "flushing" or "bleeding" the brake system and how often should I have this done?
We recommend flushing and replacing the fluid annually to remove water, sludge, or other contaminants from the system. Bleeding eliminates air bubbles from the hydraulic system. Refer to your owner's manual.

Why am I loosing brake fluid?
Since the hydraulic system should be sealed a loss of fluid indicates a leak, or wear of the brake pads and/or shoes.

Why is there a pulsation or vibration when I apply my brakes?
The rotors or drums may be cracked or distorted, as well as, the discs out of true.

Should I install semi-metallic pads?
Only when Original Equipment Manufacturer's (OEM) specifications require semi-metallic pads. Substitutions are not recommended.

Should I always use my emergency or hand-brake every time I park?
Definitely, to allow the rear brakes to properly self-adjust.

Why do my brakes pull to one side?
It can be caused by uneven tire pressures; defects in the steering or suspension systems; front end out of alignment; brake fluid leak on one of the linings; the linings may be excessively worn or unmatched; the brakes are not adjusted properly or unevenly; one or more of the drums, discs or shoes are warped; brake hose or line either clogged or kinked; or a broken rear spring.

Why does my brake pedal feel spongy?
There could be air bubbles in the hydraulic system; brake shoes defective or not worn in (if brand new); drums excessively worn; brake fluid either contaminated or incorrect; or the master cylinder may be loose on mounting.

Why do my brakes squeal or chirp?
Possible causes may be worn-out brake pads or linings; warped rotor or drum; brake linings glazed; brake shoe retaining or return spring defective; or deformed brake shoes.

Why does my brake pedal drop to the floor?

There may be air in the hydraulic system; fluid leak in master cylinder (past primary cup); hose or line leak in system; or the rear brakes misadjusted.

Why do my brake(s) rattle when I travel at low speeds?
The anti-rattle spring is either missing or not positioned properly. The clearance between the shoe and caliper is too great.

Brake warning light--If the brake system warning light comes on while you are driving, it usually means you haven't released the parking brake fully or have lost hydraulic pressure in one or both of the brake circuits. Check the parking brake first and if the light is still on, get the vehicle to a brake specialist quickly. I recommend slowing down, pulling over to the side, calling a tow truck.

Why are my brakes "pulsating"?
If the pedal pulsates under your foot as you come to a normal stop, such as at a traffic light, you've probably got warped front rotors and need to have them repaired. On vehicles equipped with ABS, you may notice a rapidly pulsating pedal under hard braking. This is normal and is the car's way of telling you that the ABS system is activated. But if you feel the pulsating during normal slow speed stops, get the brake system looked at by a professional as soon as possible.

Why is my car pulling to a side when i press the brake ?
If the vehicle pulls to one side when the brakes are applied, you may have a sticking front caliper. This can be extremely dangerous during inclement weather driving conditions and should be fixed immediately. Sometimes, though, the pulling is caused by uneven tire pressures, so check the air pressure before deciding the brakes are bad.

Why are my brakes squealing and grinding ?
Brakes aren't supposed to make noise as they operate. If you hear a grinding or squealing sound when the pedal is applied, it is time for new brake shoes or pads. Get it done right away. Postponing service is not only unsafe, it could raise the cost of repairs.
FaultCauseRemedy

Brakes pull to one side

a) Tire pressure incorrect
b) Uneven tire wear
c) Oil on break pads / liners
d) Wrong type of break pads / liners
e) Dirty floating caliper releases
f) Guide bolts dirty or damaged
g) Incorrect rear wheel alignment
h) Corrosion in floating calipers or wheel cylinders
i) Worn shock absorber
j) Single brake pad failure (one side)
k) Bake pad glazed

a) Correct tire pressure
b) Re-Balance or replace tires
c) Replace brake linings, check for cause
d) Replace brake linings, check for cause
e) Remove and install / clean floating calipers
f) Clean or replace guide bolts
g) Check wheel alignment
h) Remove, repair or replace floating calipers or wheel cylinders.
i) Check and replace shock absorber if needed
j) Replace brake linings / pad(s), check floating caliper
k) Replace brake linings / pad(s), check floating caliper

Brakes excessively hot while driving a) Vent bore in master cylinder clogged
b) No play between push rod and master cylinder piston
c) Swollen rubber parts due to use of wrong brake fluid
d) Vent bore in expansion tank clogged
e) Corroded floating calipers
f) Cross spring broken
g) Handbrake not releasing completely
a) Overhaul master brake cylinder, and replace if necessary
b) Adjust push rod
c) Overhaul master brake cylinder, and replace if necessary
d) Clean expansion tank
e) Remove and install, repair or replace floating calipers
f) Replace cross spring
g) Check handbrake and handbrake cables, and repair if necessary
Brakes squeal or rattle a) Wrong type of pads/liners
b) Dirty floating caliper recesses
c) Spring force insufficient
d) Brake disk not aligned with first caliper
e) Brake-disk run-out
f) Excessive thickness deviation within braking surface
g) Brake drums eccentric
h) Knocking brake drums
i) Dirt and dust in brake drums
j) Liner wear excessive or one-sided
k) Rust edges on brake disks
l) Pad loose
m) Wheel bearing play excessive
a) Replace brake linings
b) Remove and install/clean floating calipers
c) Replace spring
d) Check floating caliper installation
e) Check brake disk for run-out, replace if necessary
f) Measure thickness of brake disk, grind down discs or replace
g) Grind or replace brake drums
h) Grind or replace brake drums
i) Clean and check brake drums
j) Replace brake shoes
k) Grind or replace brake disks
l) Replace brake linings
m) Replace wheel bearings
Brake pads worn at angle a) Wheel-bearing play excessive
b) Brake disk not aligned with first caliper
c) Corrosion in floating calipers or wheel cylinders
d) Angular brake-disk wear
e) Pads worn to less than minimum thickness
f) Spring force insufficient
g) Guide bolts damaged
a) Replace wheel bearings
b) Check floating caliper installation
c) Remove and install, repair or replace floating calipers or wheel cylinders
d) Grind or replace brake disks
e) Replace brake linings
f) Replace spring
g) Replace guide bolts
Seized brake pads, pad does no move off brake disk a) Dirty first caliper recesses, damaged caps
b) Corrosion in floating calipers
c) Vent bore in master cylinder clogged
a) Remove and install, repair or replace floating calipers
b) Remove and install, repair or replace floating calipers
c) Overhaul or replace brake master cylinder
Brake-pedal motion too soft and "spongy" a) Air in braking system
b) Insufficient brake fluid in expansion tank - refer to a)
c) Overheated brake fluid - Vapor lock due to excessive water content in brake fluid or excessive brake loads
a) Top up or change the brake fluid
Bleed the brake system
b) Top up or change the brake fluid
Bleed the brake system
c) Top up or change the brake fluid
Bleed the brake system
Brake Pedal dead travel excessive

a) Wheel bearing play excessive
b) Brake disk not aligned with fist caliper
c) Brake-disk run-out
d) Excessive thickness deviation within braking surface
e) Brake system leaky
f) Air in braking system
g) Wrong type of pads/liners
h) Automatic slack control of brake shoes does not function

a) Replace wheel bearings
b) Check floating caliper installation
c) Check brake disk for run-out, replacing if necessary
d) Measure thickness of brake discs,
- Grind down discs or replace
e) Replace brake pads
f) Bleed brakes
g) Replace brake linings or replace brake shoes
h) Remove and install brake shoes
- Repair adjustment unit

Uneven pad wear a) Wrong type of calipers
b) Dirty first caliper recesses damaged caps
c) Corrosion in floating calipers or wheel cylinder
d) Swollen rubber ring for piston control
a) Replace brake linings
b) Remove and install, repair or replace floating calipers or wheel cylinders
c) Remove and install, repair or replace floating calipers or wheel cylinders
d) Remove and install, repair or replace floating calipers or wheel cylinders
Brake-pedal travel is excessive even though brakes have been bled and adjusted a) Primary cup in master cylinder damaged
b) Separating cups on floating piston of tandem-bake master cylinder leak
c) Leak in breaking system
a) Overhaul or replace brake master cylinder
b) Overhaul or replace brake master cylinder
c) Replace break pads
Jammed Piston in brake caliper a) Dirty fist caliper recesses, damaged caps
b) Brake disk not aligned with fist caliper
c) Corrosion on piston in floating calipers or wheel cylinders
a) Remove and install, repair or replace floating calipers
b) Check floating caliper installation
c) Remove and install, repair or replace floating caliper or wheel cylinder
Pulsating effect on brake pedal a) Wheel-bearing play excessive
b) Brake disk not aligned with first caliper
c) Brake-disk run-out
d) Excessive thickness deviation within braking surface
a) Replace wheel bearings
b) Check floating caliper installation
c) Check brake disk for run-out, replacing if necessary
d) Measure thickness of brake disks, Grind down discs or replace with correct size
Poor breaking effect in spite of great force on pedal
(Brake-pedal travel normal)
Brake pads oil-splattered or burnt, wrong type of brake pads Replace brake linings
Poor breaking effect in spite of great force on pedal
(Brake-pedal travel short)
Brake booster malfunctions - engine vacum

Check brake booster
- Check engine (valves, cylinder head gasket etc.)

Poor breaking effect in spite of great force on pedal
(Brake-pedal travel long)
One brake circuit failed due to leaks or damage Repair / replace circuit
- Replace brake pads
Handbrake effect insufficient a) Brake shoes/pads oil-spattered
b) Excessive dead travel between brake shoes and brake drums
c) Excessive dead travel in cables
d) Cables adjusted incorrectly
e) Corroded transmitting elements
a) Replace brake linings, determined cause
b) Adjust handbrake
c) Adjust handbrake
d) Adjust handbrake
e) Remove and install handbrake and expanding locks.
Check Bowden cables and replace if necessary
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