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 | Power Steering - Troubleshooting |
Power Steering - Troubleshooting: My power steering rack's boots are full of fluid. Can't I just replace the boot?
Sorry. No. It won't work. The fluid leaked into the boot because the shaft seal or lower pinion seal failed. The boot is only designed to keep dust, dirt and water out of the rack. The pressure in the steering system can reach up to 110 bar ( one bar equals about 14.5 psi) or 1595 psi. Since the atmosphere around you and the rack is only about 14.7 psi and the pressure coming out of the rack is so much greater, replacing the boot will not solve the problem. It's only a matter of time before the fluid fills up the boot all the way and leaks out of the boot. The solution is to replace the rack and you might as well put on a fresh set of boots while you are at it.
The power steering pump is making an awful groan or grinding noise. What's the problem?
This could be caused by two problems. First, the pump could be low on fluid so its "cavitating" - when bubbles form in the fluid low pressure area and collapse in a higher pressure area of the pump, causing noise, damage and a loss of capacity. Cavitating is not good. If you continue to run the pump with this problem if will wear out very very quickly. Second, your pump is already worn out. A worn pump will not fix itself. Time to place the pump and check for any leaks in the system (such as the rack).
| I saw this stuff in the auto parts store that "revitalizes and restores the seals". Will it work?
Doubtful. Very doubtful. If it worked you would have to assume that there would be no need for remanufactured
racks, pumps or new hoses. Remember, the high pressure rack or pump seals are designed to withstand high pressure, which can be up to 75 or 110 bar (1087 to 1595 psi). When a seal breaks or wears down we know of no "wonder fluid" that can mend or repair it. The same goes for rack shaft or pinion surfaces which are made of steel, we know of no fluid in a can that can remove the pits, re weld new steel and grind it back to its original size and finish. And, some of these "wonder fluids" may do more harm than good by swelling or changing the durometer (hardness) of rubber components in the system. We will say we have seen a fluid you dump in your radiator that will "temporarily" slow down or stop a low pressure leak (until you can sell the car).
My car is handling funny. Is it the rack?
Maybe not. It is very difficult to inspect, analyze or guess what the exact problem is over the phone or through email. The smartest thing to do is to bring your car to a professional who is familiar with that particular suspension. Most front end specialists can find common problems, and it's worth your time and small investment to get an expert opinion and "quote" (why worry and postulate the unknown). What you can do is ask yourself some questions: (a) how many miles are on the car, (b) when is the last time I had a front end alignment, (c) do the ball joints, inner and outer tie rods or shocks have over 100,000 miles on them, or (d) don't laugh, how's the tire pressure.
What kind of fluid should I use for my power steering system?
We could probably list all the types you could use but the smartest thing to do is look in your car owners manual. If you don't have one then look at the power steering reservoir or it's cap. If that fails try your local dealer's parts or service department. In most cases you can use ATF "Dexron" Type II or III. If you choose Dexron you do not need synthetic and any brand will do just fine.
What is the difference between a "short" and a "long" rack?
A short rack is simply the rack and pinion assembly without inner or outer tie rods attached. A long rack has two interpretations in the industry: it could be a short rack with inner tie rods and boots attached, or it could include both the inner & outer tie rods and boots. The inner tie rods attach to the rack. The outer tie rods are connected to the inner's by a thread rod or adjustment tube, with the outer connecting to the spindle.
When should I buy a short or a long rack?
The rule of thumb is: if your car has over 80,000 miles on it, you have no known history of the tie rods being replaced, and you are in need of replacing the rack, then you are smart to get a long rack. Why? Well it is a matter of economics. When you replace the "short" rack you have remove the inner tie rods from the old rack and attach them to the new, and in some cases you have remove the outer tie rods from the spindles. So if you are going through all this work it makes sense to do the job "right and once". Imagine if you only replaced the rack and not the tie rod assemblies, and 10k or 20k miles later you need to replace one or two. You'd have to find the time to do the work or make an appointment, pay or do more than half of the work that was done before, and get another alignment! When in doubt buy the long rack. Griffiths usually stocks both long and short racks. | | :: Recommended Reading / Videos :: | | | |
| :: Recommended material containing aditional info about Power Steering - Troubleshooting :: |
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